Dainty Socks
Materials: 2 balls of complementary laceweight yarns that have some nylon or silk in them for strength. I used two balls of Fiddlesticks Knitting Exquisite yarn I had in my stash (50% Merino/50% silk), each having 547 yards. You could chose contrasting yarns. I chose the same color as I wanted the stitch pattern to pop. I estimate I used under 400 meters of each.
Needles: 2.25 mm double pointed needles
Customization:
This pattern is for a women’s size 10 (Canadian). To make a larger or small size, change your number of stitches cast on by multiples of 4. 25% of your stitches will be on needle #1, 50% on needle #2 and 25% on needle #3.
To be sure your sock will fit, measure the circumference your foot around the fullest part and call this measurement A. Knit a swatch in stockinette to determine the number of stitches per inch. Take measurement A and multiply it by the number of stitches per inch. Then subtract 10%.
For example:
If measurement A is 9 inches and your stitches per inch is 8, 9 x 8 = 72 sts.
To prevent having a sloppy sock, subtract 10% of your stitches, in this case 7 sts. That leaves you with 65 sts. For the pattern to work, you need a stitch number divisible by 4. 65 sts doesn’t work, but 64 does. In this example, I'd cast on 64 stitches. (The stitch pattern in this sock has a good amount of stretch.)
Foot length can be altered by increasing the rounds knit.
Pattern:
Cast on 64 stitches : (16-32-16)
If you need a different number of stitches, 25% of your stitches will be on needle #1, 50% on needle #2 and 25% on needle #3.
P1, (k2, p2) to last stitch, p1.
Repeat this ribbing for 4 rounds in total.
Mock cable pattern:
1: p1, (k2,p2) to last stitch, p1.
2: p1, (k1, yo, k1, p2) to last stitch, p1.
3. P1, (k3, p2) to last stitch, p1.
4: p1, (sl1, k2, psso, p2) to last stitch, p1.
Begin mock cable pattern. Repeat mock cable pattern 17 times. Stop knitting when 1 stitch remains on needle #3.
Divide for heel flap:
Next round, knit stitches from needle #1 using needle #3. Be sure to knit the last stitch on needle 3 together with the first stitch on needle #1. (31 sts). Leave needle #2 untouched (32 sts).
Turn and purl back across your 31 stitches.
Next row: (k1, sl1) to last stitch, k1.
Next row: purl
Repeat these two rows 16 more times (34 rows in total) or until desired heel depth in achieved. On last purl row, increase one stitch in the middle of the row. (32 sts)
Turn heel:
Next row: k21, k2tog, turn
Next row: slpw, p11, p2tog, turn
Next row: sl1kw, k10, k2tog, turn
Repeat the last two rows until 12 stitches remain.
Knit across the heel. Pick up 19 stitches along the left side of the heel flap. Pattern across needle #2. Pick up 19 stitches along the right side of the heel flap, then knit 6 stitches from the heel flap. Slide the remaining 6 stitches from the heel flap onto needle #1. ( 25 - 32 - 25)
Knit two rounds plain.
Next round: Knit to last three stitches on needle #1, k2tog, k1. Pattern across needle #2. On needle #3, K1, ssk, Knit to end of needle.
Next round: Knit across needle #1, pattern across needle #2, Knit across needle #3.
Repeat last two rounds until 16-32-16 stitches ( or until you have returned to your original cast on number of stitches.
Continue in stocking stitch on needles #1 and #3, and pattern on needle #2, until 21 pattern repeats are completed (84 rows), or until desired length is achieved. Usually I'm satisfied when the knitting reaches about the top of the smallest toe.)
Next round: Knit to last three stitches on needle #1, k2tog, k1. Knit 1, ssk, knit to last three stitches on needle #2, k2tog, k1. K1, ssk, Knit to end of needle #3.
Next round: Knit
Repeat last two rounds until 32 stitches remain in total. (Note: not everyone's toes are the same. You can make a wider toe by using fewer decrease rounds and more knit rounds. You want sufficient length even if you choose fewer decreases.)
After last decrease, using needle #3, Knit across needle #1. You will have 16 stitches on each needle for a total of 32.
Use the Kitchener stitch to finish. Weave in ends.
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