Comfort Knits: Bed Mittens
After Christmas I decided to address the problem by knitting what I am calling "bed mittens" - fingerless mittens specifically for wearing at night. I had some DROPS Baby Merino in my stash and decided to have a go at making a pair. I also tried making a pair from a ball of DROPS Fabel on 3 mm needles and it worked out well too. These will be worn during daytime hours. This yarn was chosen because of its durability and ease of washing.
Fingerless mittens are basically a tube with a thumb gusset. I decided to make the wrist portion of my first pair a little longer as I have long arms and my nightgown sleeves often leave a gap of forearm showing. The pattern will be for bed mittens with a shorter wrist (see picture of the off-white pair for size) to ensure you can get a pair from a single ball of Baby Merino.
The stitch pattern used is a four row repeat of a mock cable that reminds me of barnacles (hence why I call it the Barnacle Stitch). It is a lovely ribbing pattern and looks far more complicated than it actually is, is easy to memorize and the four row patterns repeat makes keeping track simple as well.
Note: If you prefer to make a set using straight (k2, p2) ribbing, that would also work. You would rib to the desired wrist length, then follow the instructions for creating the thumb gusset and thumb, omitting any references to the stitch pattern.
Gauge is 24 stitches and 32 rows to 10 cm (4 inches) on 3 mm needles for DROPS Baby Merino. I used 3 mm needles for the second pair I made using the Fabel and this worked out well. The fabric was a little lighter, but is perfectly serviceable.
Tools: 3 mm double pointed needles (DPNs) or a small circular needle ( I used DPNs). Tapestry needle, small scissors, measuring tape.
The pattern is much the same regardless of size (Women's S-M) and (Women's M-L). All that changes is the number of stitches. The length of the wrist and hand portions are easily customizable, though this will impact the amount of yarn needed.
Abbreviations/skills required:
k - knit p - purl yo - yarn over sl - slip the next stitch psso - pass slipped stitch over
CO - cast on BO - bind off PM - place marker SM - slip marker M - marker
TWk - twist the yo made the previous round before knitting it; this will eliminate the hole. Alternatively you can increase one stitch by doing a kfb - knit into the front and back of the next stitch
Pattern
CO a multiple of 44 or 48 stitches on 3 mm needles. distribute across three needles and join in the round taking care not to twist your work.
Set up rounds
Round 1: p1, (k2, p2) to last stitch, p1.
Rounds 2 - 4: as round 1.
Commence Barnacle Stitch Pattern as follows:
Round 1: p1, (k2, p2), repeat to last stitch, p1.
Round 2: p1, (k1, yo, k1, p2), repeat to last stitch, p1.
Round 3: p1, (k3, p2) repeat to last stitch, p1.
Round 4: p1, (sl1, k2, psso, p2) repeat to last stitch, p1.
These four rounds make up a pattern repeat.
(The picture to the left shows a close up of the Barnacle Stitch Pattern - 4 pattern repeats)
Complete seven pattern repeats (or to desired length) ending with a round 4. You will now set up and increase two stitches every second round until you have 14 stitches for the gusset, while maintaining your stitch pattern. You start with the first and last stitches in the round, and increase (six) or (seven) stitches on either side of these two stitches.
1. Next round: k1, yo, PM, continue in pattern, completing round 1 of your stitch pattern, until you get to the last p1 stich. PM, yo, then k1. (Note: if you increase by doing a kfb, there will be no need to twist stitches in rounds 2 and 4.
2. On pattern round 2, you will k to the yo made in the previous round on needle 1, and TWk, SM, and continue as for pattern round 2, until you come to the M. Then SM, TWk, and knit to the end of the round.
3. On the third pattern round, you will knit to the M, yo, SM, then proceed in pattern round 3 to the second M. SM, yo, k to the end of the round.
4. On pattern round 4, you will k to the yo made in the previous round on needle 1, and TWk, SM, and continue as for pattern round 2, until you come to the M. Then SM, TWk, and knit to the end of the round.
Every pattern repeat you will increase 4 stitches. Continue increasing until you have (12) or (14) stitches between the markers. This will require 3 pattern repeats for the (S-M) size. For the smaller size, you will stop increasing after round 1 on your third pattern repeat, but will continue until the remaining three rounds are almost completed. (M-L) will do the last increase on the third round of the third pattern repeat.
NOTE: On the third pattern repeat, on round four, work to the marker but do not work across the final seven stitches. Slip the last seven stitches from needle 3 and the first seven stitches from needle 1 onto small stich holders, two safety pins or on waste yarn. CO two stitches onto the end of needle three, and begin working across needle 1, closing the gap as you go. Continue on in the stitch pattern beginning with a round 1.
Complete seven pattern repeats (or to the desired length less 1 cm) ending with a round 4. Complete with ribbing as follows:
Round 1: p1, (k2, p2) to last stitch, p1.
Rounds 2 - 4: as round 1.
BO . Be sure not to make the bind off tight.
Thumb : slip the 14 stitches reserved for the thumb onto 2 DPNs. Join the yarn and knit across these stitches, then pick up 4 stitches across the gap at the top of the thumb gusset. (TIP - I often pick up two more stitches than I need, then decrease on the second round. As well, if there is excess slack between the stitches, I will pick up the yarn between two stitches, twist it (to avoid making a hole) and then knit it together with the next stitch.)
Work to the desired thumb length (less 1 cm). Then complete four rounds of (k1, p1) ribbing and BO.
Both mittens are identical in shape - there is no left or right. Weave in ends.
The picture to the left shows a bed mitten made of DROPS Fabel.
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